In addition to being very nicely decorated, the Calibre 37 automatic movement has a number of attributes you expect to see in high quality Glashütte-region mechanical motions. It starts by utilizing a conventional 3/4 plate construction, which means that the rear plate of the watch covers more area, and results in a more powerful, more durable design. Then you have a swan neck fine-adjustment system as part of the regulation system which, when mixed together with all the 14ct gold screws in the balance wheel, make to get a system that a watchmaker may tweak for very exact accuracy.The movement also has an anticipated level of decor at a watch priced like this such as polished surfaces, beveled edges, and blued steel screws. The automatic rotor is also skeletonized (and given the Glashütte Original brand emblem) to make viewing the movement a little simpler, and further weighted using a strip of 21ct gold. Additionally really nice is that the fact that when you see the movement throughout the back of the case you can appreciate that it will take up most of the case – as, oftentimes, individuals do not like when a motion is placed in a situation that’s too large for it.It’s hard to locate areas of fault in the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. It’s true that you might not personally like the layout, but because of what it is, Glashütte Original spent an intense level of refinement on nearly all specifics. Nothing about this watch actually says “improve mepersonally,” beyond little taste preferences or quirks that individuals might subjectively desire changed. For me, wearing a watch like this feels very much like you’re strapping on a pure reflection of the what the newest seeks to elicit within their products.The Glashütte Original emblem, with its double Gs design has one G facing forwards and a single G facing backward. That is an honest apology for what the brand is, and the notion is that half of their mind is concentrated on the past, and half is focused on the long run. In various ways, that sums up the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date pretty well given its several nods to the past concerning the situation and dial layout, along with having a regionally traditional mechanical movement, as well as looking ahead by being a modern luxury watch with a solid nature and remarkable movement meant to be what nice watch fans are looking for now and into the future. Cost for the reference 1-37-02-03-02-70 Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is $16,400.
The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is not a cheap watch, but people get it for the instance design, detailing, and naturally, the in-house-made movement. Like I said before, it will take a relatively experienced watch lover to really appreciate each detail and unique style here. It is all about the scenario, motion, dialup, and bracelet – all of which can be made in Germany.As all watches are sold or handed over due to their dial, let’s talk about the one on this Seventies Chronograph for an instant. This variant is in a sunburst metallic blue, and this is produced by Glashütte Original by their own dial-maker which is situated elsewhere in the nation, in Pforzheim, Germany. The blue isn’t just chemically applied, but done using a carefully constructed technique using layers of varnish. Blue is a popular choice for watch dials today, and that’s a good thing since it delivers a more inviting shade than grey, and is a little more favorable than, say, black, white, or silver. With that said, the challenge in producing a fantastic blue dial will be in getting both the exact right shade and completing. Too light or dark and it can easily ruin the allure; overly matte and it can look cheap; too glossy and it can affect legibility. So when you find a blue-colored dial that’s done correctly, it’s easy to enjoy it.
The first limited edition Senator Moon Stage Skeletonized Edition watch came in 18k rose gold. The brand new regular production version one, on the other hand, comes in a 18k white gold case. If you prefer your watches to look more discreet, then the white gold situation is a boon. One thing to note is that the whole situation is mirror-polished, and that means two things: 1) it glimmers and glows like mad underneath direct light and two) to get clumsier owners, the opinion is a scratch magnet.Between the moon stage sub-dial at 10 o ‘clock, cone shaped power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock, moments sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and the decorated motion elements, the dial could veer on looking almost chaotic but the cohesive execution succeeds. It’s a wonderfully elaborate design done in a clearly Glashütte way.Case dimensions stay the same in 42mm in diameter and 11.2mm in height. It seems modest, however, the watch actually wears a little larger than you may think. That’s because that the lugs are rather long. They do curve downwards so wearing comfort is not too bad. On the other hand, the lug to lug length of this watch is rather substantial, so it wears more like a 44mm or even 45mm watch. Luckily, the situation is rather thin, which should be the situation for a watch that is as elaborate as this.The crown doesn’t twist down, but it is signed with the double-G logo of Glashütte Original. The sapphire case back is screwed down and the watch comes with a graded water resistance of 30m. That is pretty much standard stuff for dressy hand-wound watches such as this.
Then, think of all the watches that have non-round cases which just didn’t work despite best efforts. If you know your watches, you will understand that the ineffective ones definitely outnumber the ones that are successful. So in regards to non-round watches, then there’s great risk, but also great reward if the brand gets its own right. In my view, the Glashütte Original Seventies, while not entirely mainstream in its appeal, has the makings of a classic.In a way, it’s already a contemporary classic. Despite the fact that the modern version came out only a few decades back, Glashütte Original did not simply name it “Seventies” since it loosely reminded them of this age. Rather, this particular collection, which includes models on several straps and three different dial colors, is directly predicated on watches that the brand released in the 1970s. That meant a great deal of experimentation with colors and case contours. Nonetheless, the state was rather liberal with its designs, and it was a golden era of style that the Glashütte Original brand of today frequently brings inspiration from. Another square-cased version the brand creates which is inspired by the 1960s is the Glashütte Original Sixties Square (hands-on here).
Since you might be able to see in the photographs, it is often very difficult to determine where the short hour hand is particularly if it is hovering above parts of the dial which were cut out. The highly decorated motion doesn’t provide enough contrast to make the flamed-blue hour hand easily distinguishable. Luckily, reading the moments is much easier as the thin flamed-blue minute hand extends all of the way out to the minute track.The motion here’s the Calibre 49-13 and it is a skeletonized movement that’s been heavily and intricately decorated and embellished by hand. Flipping the watch over, you can make out what’s left of this three-quarters plate that’s a tradition of German watchmaking.The remaining bridges are beveled by hand and contain lots of hand-engraving. The winding wheels have double sided sunburst decoration and the movement stones sit in screwed gold chatons. Visible screws are either flame-blued or polished.But what I enjoy most about the motion is looking at the big screwed balance wheel. The Calibre 49-13 beats at 4Hz and so the huge balance wheel swings fairly quickly. There is a swan-neck fine adjustment mechanism and also the balance cock is engraved in true Glashütte tradition. Power book of the Calibre 49-13 is roughly 40 hours, that is not too bad considering its 4Hz beat rate and that it just has a single mainspring.
As a mental exercise, think of all of the watches that you can that are not around but are also timeless. Then, think of all the watches which have non-round instances which just did not work despite best attempts. If you understand your watches, you’ll understand that the ineffective ones clearly outnumber the successful ones. So in regards to non-round watches, then there’s great danger, but also fantastic reward if the brand gets its right. In my view, the Glashütte Original Seventies, while not entirely mainstream in its allure, has the makings of a classic.In a sense, it’s already a modern classic. Even though the contemporary version came out just a few years ago, Glashütte Original did not just name it “Seventies” because it loosely reminded them of this era. Rather, this particular collection, including models on several straps and three different dial colors, is directly based on watches that the brand released in the 1970s. That meant a great deal of experimentation with colors and case contours. Remember that this was during a period once the brand was really state-controlled, as Saxony was in what was then East Germany, run as a democratic country. Nevertheless, the state was quite liberal with its designs, and it was a golden era of design that the Glashütte Original brand of now frequently draws inspiration from.
Better known for solid and accessibly priced wristwatches like the Senator Excellence, Glashütte Original takes a different tack with the Senator Moon Phase Skeletonized Edition.
Equipped with an elaborately decorated movement that’s been open-worked and engraved by hand, the new Senator is one of the few skeleton timepieces made by the German watchmaker.
First launched in 2012 in rose gold as a 100-piece limited edition, the Senator Moon Phase Skeletonized Edition is now offered in white gold as regular production. The dimensions though, stay the same – 42mm in diameter and 11.2mm high.
The movement remains the calibre 49-13, a hand-wound movement with moon phase and power reserve that’s produced in-house.
The calibre 49-13 constructed in a manner typical of Glashütte Original’s movements, with a three-quarter plate and screwed gold chatons for the jewels, but the heavily decorated bridges and main plate render most of the movement inconspicuous since the eye is overwhelmed by the engraving.
Price and availability
The Senator Moon Phase Skeletonized Edition (ref. 1-49-13-15-04-01) is priced at US$45,000 or S$66,100.